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Snowmobile Safety South Dakota has a voluntary snowmobile safety program that is administered by snowmobile clubs affiliated with the South Dakota Snowmobile Association. The courses are designed for both youth and adults who wish to learn more about safely and ethically operating a snowmobile. For more information about snowmobile safety courses, contact the South Dakota Snowmobile Association at (605) 272-5900 or email sdsa@itctel.com. Download this information ... |
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Following is a list of the most common names of the parts of your snowmobile. Chassis - The frame of the snowmobile. It is usually made of steel or aluminum. It supports the engine, drive system, suspension and seat. Engine - Provides power to move the snowmobile. Most snowmobile engines are of the two stroke design and are fueled by a mixture of gasoline and oil. The engine is lightweight and is designed for maximum power output and easy starting in cold temperatures. Exhaust System - The exhaust manifold carries the burned fuel from the engine to the muffler. The muffler then quiets the engine, helps the engine run smoothly, and directs the exhaust away from the engine. The exhaust is factory tuned. Modifications will result in a loss of power and performance. Drive System - The clutches, a belt, drive shaft, chain, drive sprockets and track which changes the energy from the engine into the movement of the track. The engine crankshaft is turned by the power from the piston moving down. The primary drive clutch, attached to the end of the crankshaft, turns, causing the drive belt to turn. This starts the driven clutch turning, which turns the upper sprocket and drive chain around the lower sprocket which is attached to a drive shaft. The drive shaft turns the track which moves the snowmobile. Suspension System - A series of springs and wheels, and/or slide rails which keep the bottom of the machine from hitting the ground. It includes the rear axle, springs, and idler wheels, or slide rails or a combination of both. The suspension is designed to keep the track flat on the snow, give a comfortable ride, and make the machine handle easily. It makes the machine "float" over the snow. The suspension can be adjusted for different riding conditions. Steering System - The steering column, tie rods, steering arms, ski columns, ski springs or independent front suspension (IFS) and skis. Hood - Some times called a cowl. Covers the engine and drive system. Openings called louvers on the hood let fresh air into the engine compartment. Most windshields and headlights are mounted on the hood. Instrument Panel - a panel containing gauges and some of the controls for the snowmobile. Other controls are on the handlebars. The owner's manual will show the location of controls on your particular machine.
Before you attempt any maintenance or repair of your snowmobile, you should read the owner's manual. Don't attempt a repair which you do not understand completely. If a repair is beyond your ability, have a snowmobile dealer or mechanic take care of it for you. It is important to check your machine often. Do not make adjustments which could endanger you and others when you are driving. After making an adjustment on your snowmobile, remember to check it periodically throughout the season. It is possible that your snowmobile could have a problem which would stop it completely. For this reason, you should never travel alone. Remember, it may take several hours to walk back from a ride that only took a few minutes on your snowmobile. Here are some suggestions for regular checkups. Refer to your owner's manual for instructions about your snowmobile. Drive belt inspection - Check the drive belt before each trip. Watch for frayed edges, gouges and cracks. Check the width of the belt to be sure it is not worn. You should practice changing your drive belt at home. Some snowmobiles have special tools that make it easy to change the belt. Read the owner's manual. Track tension adjustment - Your owner's manual will tell you how much free play there should be in the track. If the track is too tight, it will cause a loss of power and wear the hifax quickly. The snowmobile should go down a moderately steep hill without pressing the throttle if the track tension is correct. Always track alignment after changing the track tension. Ski alignment - Normal driving may push skis out of line with each other. If your snowmobile pulls in one direction, place the machine on a solid surface and face the handlebars straight ahead. Measure the distance between the skis at the front and at the rear. Check your owner's manual for proper ski alignment. Normally, the skis should toe out about 1/4 inch. Brake adjustments - On most machines, about 3/4 inch play on the brake lever is recommended. Refer to the owner's manual for exact adjustment. Proper adjustment prevents brake drag and excessive wear. Most newer snowmobiles have self adjusting brakes. If you are not sure about the brakes, take the snowmobile to a dealer for inspection. Recoil starter - Replace the cord if it is frayed. If
you are not familiar with this operation, it is wise to let a mechanic
repair it for you. If the rope does not return properly, the recoil
assembly may require cleaning, lubrication or alignment. Do not let the
starter cord snap back when you start the engine. Check your owner's manual: Lubrication - Lubricate the suspension system. Check idler wheels or slides for extreme wear. Replace if necessary. Ignition- Spark plugs are one of the most important parts of snowmobiles. Without them, the engine will not run. One of the main reasons for plug fouling is an improper gas/oil mixture. Be very careful in measuring the right amounts of oil and gasoline. Carburetor - Carefully follow the instructions in the
owner's manual if you need to adjust carburetor settings. Most carburetors
are factory calibrated and should only be adjusted by a qualified
mechanic. Before putting your snowmobile away during the off season, clean the engine and suspension. When the snowmobile is clean, check hardware and various components for tightness. Make any repairs that are necessary. Replace worn or missing screws and bolts. If you plan to take the machine to a dealer for servicing, you'll find he usually has more time available for service work in the early spring. Be sure your machine will be in tip-top condition and ready for riding in the fall. If you use a fuel stabilizer, it is not necessary to drain all the fuel from the tank. Follow the directions on the container. Remove the spark plugs and add one teaspoon of 2-cycle oil in each cylinder. This will prevent rust from forming. Pull the recoil start rope six or seven times to lubricate the cylinder walls before re-installing the spark plugs. In the fall, after starting the engine for the first time, you may want to replace the spark plugs. Remove the drive belt and follow the instructions in your owner's manual for servicing the clutches. Check the fluid level in the chain case. Use upholstery cleaner on the vinyl seat cover. Use touch-up paint on any bare metal surfaces. Give the
snowmobile a coat of wax to finish the job. It is better to store your
snowmobile inside. Follow the manufacturers recommendations for protecting
the track. When storing your snowmobile, it's a good idea to plug all
openings (exhaust, air intake) with an oily rag or suitable material. Also
remove the seat if possible and store it inside. This will help prevent
mice and squirrels from building nests in the snowmobile. Read the owner's manual written for your model snowmobile. If adjustments were not made in the Spring, they must be completed before using your snowmobile for the first time. Ignition * Replace spark plugs. Be sure they are gapped to manufacturer's specifications and are the proper heat range. Carburetor/Fuel * Check fuel filter, replace if necessary. Check fuel lines for cracks or leaks. * Check fittings for leaks. Drive Belt * Check for wear and cracks. * Measure width of belt and compare to specifications. * Be sure you have a spare belt in your snowmobile. Track * Examine for broken cleats, loose or torn drive holes, and ply separation. * Alignment of track. * Track tension. Skis * Alignment * Examine for loose weld joints, loose or worn out wear rods. * Check ski bottom for excessive wear. Chain * Lubrication * Check chain tension Shocks * Check for oil leaks Lights * Replace burned out bulbs. * Apply brakes to check stop lights with engine running. Clutch * Check owners manual for recommendations. Brakes * Proper adjustment. * Free operation. * Worn pads. Check for loose nuts and bolts on the snowmobile. Suspension * Idler wheels * Lubrication * Axle wheels and bearings. * Loose nuts and bolts. * Broken welds and springs. * Slide rails. Check spare parts and tools. * Light bulbs - pack so
they won't break. * Spark plugs need to be gapped. Check owner's manual
for proper setting. In an emergency, a match cover will approximate gap. *
Spare belt. * Tools (pliers, adjustable wrench, screwdrivers: flat and
Phillips, lockable pliers). * Starter pull rope. * Owner's manual. *
Emergency survival kit. PRE-STARTING CHECKLIST (FELTS) Fuel and oil levels - are the tanks full?
Accidents can occur because the driver is not ready to take control of the machine. After you have made a careful pre-start check, and your machine is ready to go, then follow these steps to start the snowmobile: * Be in a position to control the machine immediately. A
sitting or kneeling position is best. Before starting out on your snowmobile, be sure to: It is a good idea to operate a new snowmobile at low speeds during the first tank of fuel or the first three to four hours of operation. This will allow the moving parts inside the machine to mesh, or seat themselves. This helps guarantee a longer life for your snowmobile. Driving a snowmobile is similar to driving a bicycle or motorcycle. A snowmobile is "rider active." This means that your body movements will help to control the steering and control of the snowmobile. Balance is kept by shifting your body weight. The throttle and brake also help you to control the machine. Be prepared to shift your weight quickly to counteract
the bumps and dips in the trail. You must learn to adapt to differing snow
conditions, changes in the terrain, and changing weather. You may want to tow children in a snowmobile sled. Use a rigid tow bar, never a rope, so the sled will not hit the back of the snowmobile when you stop. Sleds should be loaded with the weight in the bottom of the sled. This is called lowering the center of gravity. All passengers should stay seated, with hands and feet
inside the sled. Passengers should get out and walk when crossing roads.
Every towed sled should have reflectors on the sides and rear. It is also
a good idea to have a safety flag attached.
Night riding is popular for many reasons. It is a good time for people to get together during the week. By the time students are home from school, parents are home from work, and supper is over, it is usually dark out. Night riding is different from daytime riding. The stillness of night, especially when the moon is out, is enchanting. However, you should be aware that many accidents occur after dark. There is a great danger of hitting objects at night which you might see easily during the day. Here are some safe riding tips. Many accidents have also been caused by running into
chains, cables and gates used as road closures. Always ride on marked
trails to avoid these hazards. Many snowmobile trails are parts of
existing road rights-of-way, lanes between fields, or trails in the woods.
In all cases other persons might change the terrain in some way without
knowing that they are making it dangerous for snowmobiles. Snowfall and
drifting can cover culverts, fallen tree limbs, fences, and rocks. If you
don't know the area, be smart and take it slow.
Hypothermia is a condition where your body is unable to maintain a warm temperature. This causes the temperature of the main organs (heart, kidneys, lungs and brain) to drop. The loss of temperature can be caused by many conditions. It is important to know that both dry and wet cold can cause hypothermia. A person's age, health, length of time exposed to the cold, and clothing can all contribute to hypothermia. One of the first signs of hypothermia is shivering. The shivering is caused by your bodies attempt to warm itself. Signs of more advanced hypothermia include intense uncontrolled shivering, skin may become pale, and signs of confusion may appear. It is important to prevent further heat loss. Remove the victim from the wind, cold or wet environment. The person should move closer to artificial heat, eat hot food and add more clothing. The more dangerous level of hypothermia is when the shivering stops. Once the person has passed this first stage, the cold will begin to affect the brain. From this point on, the person will be able to recover only with the help of others. The person may look pale or blue. Movement will be slow. The body is reacting to the heat loss by conserving all warmth for the main organs. Hence, less blood is being pumped to hands, arms, feet, legs, and skin. The brain's reasoning power is affected, and main organs begin to slow down as temperature lowers. At this point the person should be removed from the cold. Slowly re-warm the victim of hypothermia as soon as possible. Start a fire and give the person something warm (not hot) to drink. (Do not give coffee, tea or alcohol.) Put dry clothing on the victim and be sure the head and neck are covered with a hat or scarf. The victim must be taken to a medical facility as soon as possible. Remember - If you are snowmobiling and start to feel
cold, it is important to stop and let someone know you are cold. You
should always carry extra clothing with you. Dressing in layers is the best way to regulate your body temperature. When you venture out into the cold weather, you need to be prepared for sudden changes in temperature. If you start to get too warm, you should remove a layer. If you are getting cold, add a layer. Many thin layers of clothing will allow you to adjust for temperature changes. Clothing should be wind proof and water repellent. You should select the right combination of clothing to stay warm. Clothing should be loose enough to permit freedom of movement. If you dress properly, moisture will evaporate from your body. If you become too hot and your clothing traps moisture, you will get cold. It is best to choose jackets, sweaters and shirts that can be unbuttoned or unzipped. That way, you may open up the clothing rather than removing it when you start to become overheated. If you start to cool down, zip or button up the clothing to preserve body heat. Although a helmet is not required in South Dakota, an approved helmet with ear protection is essential. It will provide you with the best protection from the cold and noise. A face shield is also important to protect you from wind, snow, branches and objects that may be thrown up by other snowmobiles. Shields should have adequate ventilation to prevent lens fogging. Avoid the fixed bubble type of face guards as they will frost up. Always keep your helmet strap buckled. A face mask will also provide extra protection. Many riders wear a face mask under their helmet at all times. A face mask helps to reduce the possibility of frostbite. Orlon knit pullover face masks are commonly used. A scarf is not recommended for use while on a snowmobile, because it can get caught in the moving parts. If you do use one, be sure to tuck it in underneath your clothing so no ends are flying loose. It is better to use a neck warmer. Mittens are warmer than gloves. They should not be too tight and should have an inner liner. You should always carry an extra pair of mittens. A light inner glove or liner is handy if you must remove outer mittens to handle small items. If you prefer gloves, look for a pair that have extra insulation across the knuckles. Mittens and gloves must be kept clean to preserve their insulating capabilities. Many snowmobiles have electric hand warmers built into the handlebar grips and thumb warmers built into the throttle lever. Foot warmers are available from after market suppliers. A light pair of socks under a heavy pair of high-bulk socks will keep your feet warm. Polypropylene socks will wick away moisture and retain good insulation value even when wet. Be sure your socks do not make your boots too tight because this will cut off the circulation. This is a common cause of cold feet. Snowmobile boots with a removable felt liner are the
best choice for footwear. You should purchase a spare set of liners for
your boots so they can be removed at the end of the day and be replaced by
dry liners. Boots must be capable of keeping your feet warm and dry even
though you do little walking. Be sure they are not too tight. You may want
to buy boots that are one size larger than your shoe size to allow extra
room for bulky socks. Most popular snowmobile boots have nylon or leather
tops, rubber bottoms, and felt liners. Moon boots are also popular. You have to carefully plan what equipment may be needed, especially if you are taking a long trip. Have you ever thought about the storage spaces in your snowmobile? We know about the storage compartment that contains your owner's manual and maybe a tool kit. You can also store many pieces of survival equipment on your snowmobile. A folding saw, a cellular telephone, freeze dried food, extra tools, spare drive belt, maps, extra clothing and an emergency shelter are just a few of the items that can be stored on or in your snowmobile. Many of these items can be secured under the snowmobile cowl, carried in a small backpack or in a map bag attached to the snowmobile seat. Caution - Any items placed under the snowmobile cowl
must be properly secured away from steering components, moving parts and
hot exhaust areas. Many snowmobile accidents include some personal injury. The most dangerous situation occurs when a person is injured and alone, miles from help. But any injury can be dangerous if you handle it incorrectly. You may need to care for your own injuries or someone else when you least expect it. In any emergency, be calm, and reassuring to the injured person. Do as much as you can for the injured person, and send others for help. For your own and others' protection, everyone should take a first aid class. Your local rescue squad, fire department or police department can give you information about first aid classes. It has been said that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. You will not learn enough about first aid just by reading this section. A first aid course is essential to any person involved in sports. This section is meant to give you an idea of what is possible in the field. Learn the technique for artificial respiration and know about hypothermia, heart attack, and shock. The ABC's are - Airway Breathing, and Circulation. If a person is slumped over on a snowmobile or lying on
the ground, always check for breathing first, then bleeding, then look for
other signs of injury. Cuts, frostbite, broken bones, and even heart
attacks are possible injuries. Care for shock with any injury.
BLEEDING If a cut is serious, put a compress directly over the wound and bandage it tightly enough to stop the bleeding. If bleeding continues, raise the wounded part higher than the rest of the body if possible. If bleeding continues, use the pressure point technique by applying pressure to the brachial (upper arm) or femoral (upper leg) arteries. Learn more about this technique so you can pinpoint the specific areas. Tourniquets should only be used when direct pressure, elevation, and pressure points do not control severe bleeding. The tourniquet should only be used as a last resort. Think of using one only if a person might die without it. To prevent and identify frostbite, frequent checks of
each other's exposed skin is necessary. Frostbite turns the skin white.
Warm the affected area as soon as possible, but warm it slowly. Do not rub
the frostbitten part with snow or your hand. Warm pressure against the
part is best. Place warm clothing or a blanket over the part, but do not
try to warm it too quickly near a fire or heater. Get the victim indoors
as soon as possible. Severe frostbite requires immediate medical
attention.
BROKEN BONES Broken bones can be recognized by the odd positions of the limb or by the victim feeling pain. Immobilize the limb by splinting it with two straight sticks, one on each side of the limb. Tie one bandage above the break and one below it. Also tie down each end of the splint. Never tie directly over the break. Move any injured part very carefully, trying not to disturb the break. Never move a person with possible spinal injury until the situation is carefully surveyed. Check for the following signs which indicate spinal injury. Loss of mobility or sensation. Ask the victim to move
toes, feet, and legs and test sensitivity to touch. Any loss indicates
injury to the spinal cord. The location of the injury can be identified
with similar checks to the upper extremities. Whenever a person has a pain
in the back or neck, following an accident of force, consider the
possibility of spinal injury. If there are any symptoms of spinal injury,
do not move the victim.
HEART ATTACK A heart attack is usually caused by hardening of the arteries. It also occurs when there is insufficient oxygen in the blood to the heart. The symptoms are pain or squeezing sensation in the mid-chest, shortness of breath, pain in the upper arms, nausea, vomiting, sweating and anxiety. Sometimes people have a pain in the upper abdomen and feel nauseous so they think it is indigestion. The first thing to do is check the ABC's, loosen
clothing, and seek medical attention immediately. Do not leave the person
alone. Check to see if the person has any medication. The most important
thing is to keep the patient comfortable. The patient may not want to lie
down, but try to persuade the patient to lie down anyway without causing
panic. If you must transport the patient, try to be as gentle as possible.
Take the patient to a hospital immediately.
SHOCK Shock is a failure of the heart and blood vessels to provide enough oxygen to every part of the body. Too many times a victim has been successfully treated for an injury but subsequently dies of shock. Some of the symptoms of shock are: restlessness, mental confusion, pale skin, rapid pulse, rapid, shallow breathing and profuse sweating. To treat for shock: check the ABC's, keep the person
lying down, elevate legs (unless a spinal injury is suspected), maintain
body temperature by protecting the victim from wind and cold as much as
possible. Seek medical attention.
You can make up this first aid kit - * six band aids *
two 2-inch compresses * four 4-inch compresses * four triangular bandages
* one roll of 2-inch gauze * one roll of 1 inch adhesive tape * scissors
Be sure the container is waterproof. Don't include any liquids that will
freeze.
12 STEPS FOR SAFER SNOWMOBILING Don't forget to check the throttle. A frozen throttle can make your snowmobile as dangerous as a loaded gun. Before the first pull-start, and even before you turn on the key, check that throttle. If it sticks in any position, forget about snowmobiling until you get it fixed. Never point the machine toward people or property, even if the throttle seems to work. Don't follow that mystery track. Unless you're on a well known trail, be extremely cautious of following tracks, especially at night. The snowmobiler who makes a track in the daytime might have been traveling at 5 mph and might have avoided a ditch or wash-out. Following his or her track at 40 mph at night can mean a trip to the hospital. Never check fuel with a lighted match. Always carry a flashlight for night riding or improvise a "dip stick" to check gas levels. Never light a match - even a stiff breeze and an empty tank won't make this practice safe. Also remember that the fumes of an open battery are as explosive as gasoline when exposed to open flame. Never leave a machine idling. An idling machine is a sure temptation to a thief or joy rider. If you're going to be out of sight of your snowmobile, turn it off and take the ignition key with you. Even if there aren't any thieves around, the clutch could grab and propel your sled where you don't want it. Don't lift the back end to clear the track. Rocks, chunks of ice, and other garbage can be propelled at speeds of up to 70 mph toward innocent bystanders behind the machine. Never tailgate another snowmobile. As with cars, tailgating puts you in a mighty bad position if the person in front has to slow down suddenly or all at once hits an obstacle. Imagine your chances of trying to avoid ramming him, or driving over his machine. If you're on a trail ride and have someone riding on your tail, pull out to the side and motion them past. A snowmobile is not designed to stop on a dime. Don't tug the front of a stuck sled. Never ask your friends to pull on the front end of a stuck snowmobile while you work the throttle. And never do it yourself if you don't savor the thought of being run over. One way to pull the snowmobile out is to attach a rope to the bumper or a ski and pull on the rope. If you are traveling in deep snow and get helplessly mired in, turn your machine off and pack the snow down around the sides and front of your machine. Then start your engine and rock the snowmobile back and forth and ride out slowly. Don't panic. Even deep snow can be hand scooped or packed down until you're back on the trail. Never take a chance on ice. Frozen lakes and rivers often are the first place to snowmobile before snow comes. But keep in mind that no one has ever guaranteed ice of any thickness will hold a sled everywhere. Always be extremely cautious on ice. Even if it's glare ice three feet thick, it takes a load of experience to travel very fast. A 40 mph spin or crossways slide spells disaster if you hit rough ice or even a very small obstacle. Don't tow without a solid hitch. Towing skiers or sleds behind a snowmobile can be fun, but if you do, remember it also can be dangerous. Ropes for towing are not recommended if you want to avoid injuries. Tangling of slack ropes in the track or drive, inexperience, and various snow or ice conditions can make rope-towing more dangerous than fun. The best bet is always to use a rigid-mount or "stiff" hitch sled for extra passengers, and don't forget they're back there. Never snowmobile by yourself. Among snowmobilers who know what's going on, there's an unwritten rule that you never, absolutely never, snowmobile alone any distance at all. Even at 30 mph, a half-hour drive can put you 15 miles into the wilderness. If you run into trouble in deep snow or have a mechanical failure and have to walk, you're in trouble. Use the buddy system on long trips, have a sled that works, carry extra gas and parts, and dress for extreme weather. Always let someone else know where you're going, and when you plan to come back. Don't think of a snowmobile as a toy. Whenever you climb aboard a snowmobile, you should be dressed like you're going to ride a machine in cold weather in rough terrain. Long trailing scarves invite being caught in moving parts or by low hanging branches. Long dangling pierced earrings are strictly taboo. A snowmobile is a machine, period. As with any machine,
if you remove protective parts like clutch guards, you are flirting with
painful experiences.
Safety, courtesy, and protection of the environment are
important to all people who use the outdoors. Snowmobilers share the trail
with other snowmobilers and non-motorized groups, such as cross country
skiers. All users should respect another person's right to the trail. The
list of goals below contains good principles to follow when on the trail.
Together they form a code of ethics and should be practiced by all users
of the environment. Try to think why each of these points is necessary.
I will be a good sports enthusiast. I recognize that people judge all snowmobile owners by my actions. I will use my influence with other snowmobile owners to promote fair conduct. I will not litter trails or camping areas. I will not pollute streams or lakes. I will not damage living trees, shrubs, or other natural features. I will go out only when there is sufficient snow so that I will not damage the land. I will respect other people's property and rights. I will lend a helping hand when I see someone in
distress. I will make myself and my snowmobile available to assist search
and rescue parties. I will not interfere with or harass hikers, skiers,
snowshoes, ice anglers or other winter sports enthusiasts. I will respect
their rights to enjoy our recreation facilities. I will know and obey all
federal, state, and local rules regulating the operating of snowmobiles in
areas where I use my snowmobile. I will not harass wildlife. I will avoid
areas posted for the protection or feeding of wildlife. I will stay on
marked trails or marked roads open to snowmobiles. I will not snowmobile
where prohibited.
Be sure your snowmobile is in topnotch mechanical condition at the beginning of the winter season and throughout the months of use. Familiarize yourself with the snowmobile you are driving by reading in detail the owner's manual accompanying the snowmobile. Wear sensible, protective clothing designed for snowmobiling. Use a full size helmet, goggles, or face shield to prevent injuries from twigs, stones, ice chips, and flying debris. Avoid wearing long scarves. They may get caught in moving parts of the snowmobile. Know the terrain you are going to ride. If unfamiliar to you, ask someone who has traveled over it before. Know the weather forecast and especially the ice and snow conditions in the area. Always use the buddy system. Never ride alone. Do not pursue domestic or wild animals. If you see a violation of this rule, report it to the nearest law enforcement officer. At all times, be sure you have a properly operating lighting system on the snowmobile. Drowning is one cause of snowmobile fatalities. When not familiar with the thickness of the ice or water currents, avoid these areas. Don't remove the factory-installed air box or muffler to install one that makes more noise. This would lessen the performance of your snowmobile. The manufacturer is trying hard, for the betterment of the environment, to develop a quieter machine.
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Copyright Ó 2006 State of South Dakota